We did manage to get some fishing done in the brackish canals along Route 29 and 41. We caught some very nice alligator gars, which were promptly released, and a few small black bass and cichlids but nothing worth keeping or getting excited about. We finally opted for some good old exploring and sight seeing.
We ventured down to Everglades City and down to Chokoloskee. Pretty much all of it was typical brackish and saltwater marshland with cabbage palms and saw grass as far as the eye could see, interrupted only with tannic backwaters and brackish canals that usher sheets of fresher water off to the Gulf of Mexico. The water is amazingly clear but most all of the canals and streams have pitch black bottoms littered with rotting leaves and other detritus that gives the illusion of black water. The environment is actually very beautiful and inviting, tropical in many ways, yet uniquely marshy. The steams are lined with Blue Herons and Great Egrets, Anhinga’s, Cormorants and countless other bird species, even the occasional Parrot of some sort. All in all I believe bird watching was far more productive than angling on this day.
Of course we spied plenty gators too. Lots of small ones around two to 5 foot long. In fact, if you look closely at the pictured 5 footer you can see several small cichlids in the water of the upper right corner watching his every move.
4 or 5 footer
We also saw several large reptiles in excess of 10 feet. They are truly majestic and formidable. These animals are the top predator in the food chain and are so incredibly fast and powerful that I can scarcely imagine capturing one by hand let alone in a trap. I also find them so incredibly beautiful that I cannot imagine killing one either.
12 to 15 foot long
You see them all lounging lazily on the banks of the streams or floating languidly in the water, but when you see one on it’s feet, head erect on its neck, aware and alert, you instantly see the true power and magnificence of the creature. They are truly impressive.
Havana Cafe'
Around 1:30 or 2:00 in the afternoon we found ourselves in Chokoloskee in front of the “Havana Café” and decided to go in for lunch.
There are times in a person’s life when they stumble into something unexpected and so surprisingly pleasant that they begin to lament its loss even before leaving.
This café is one of those places.
Dining Room
The owners are pleasant and very accommodating. The café is quaint and comfortable and the food is… well… OUTSTANDING!
My friend and I both had the Tamale, which came steamed and seated on a banana leaf and smothered in sofrito so delectable that I could have eaten a bowl of it by itself. The tamale was absolutely wonderful. Staying true to the Cuban and Island style cooking and not the Mexican, the tamale was rich and earthy with wonderful seasoning. The tamale was priced at around $7 or $8 and my friend and I shared an order of black beans and rice, which was tasty as well. After our lunch we had Café-Con Leche, which I ordered “Fuerte” and we shared a piece of homemade flan, which was smoother, and more rich than I have had in years.
If you ever find yourself in this neck of the swamp, check out this quaint café, it will be well worth your time.
All in all my friend and I made an otherwise gray and dull overcast day a small adventure filled exploration which produced a very pleasant surprise.
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